Clyde’s

It’s extremely unusual for the Ensemble to feature an American play that opened on Broadway only 18 months ago. But ever-on-the-alert play selectors for this excellent Sydney venue have certainly hit the jackpot with Clyde’s, a zippy piece by two-time Pulitzer Prize winner Lynn Nottage.

Set in the kitchen of a greasy-spoon diner whose patrons are truckers making the long haul across Pennsylvania, owner Clyde and her four backstage workers are all ex-cons and desperate. Hungry truckers only order sandwiches here, it seems, so the hunt is on for the most creative and best-presented stuff between two slices of bread.

In a strong cast, Clyde herself (played with abundant aggressive attack by Nancy Denis) reigns supreme in the kitchen, towering over her craven staff – one-parent Letitia (Ebony Vagulans), touchy Rafael (Gabriel Alvarado), thoughtful Montrellous (Charles Allen) and multi-tattooed Jason (Aaron Tsindos). She enters and exits with orders, humiliating her workers, who put up with her browbeating for fear they’ll be back in the slammer.

It’s Montrellous who is working on new ideas for sandwiches in the post-Trump era, while Clyde runs her socks off as both proprietor and, apparently, the only front-of-house worker (and dresser in a spectacular array of mind-boggling outfits). Her appearances always bring dumbstruck terror to her staff.

Directed by Darren Yap, the play zips along, with occasional moments of wonder. Why does the play flare into mystery from time to time? What are the fiery and cold blasts about?

The costumes and setting are by Simone Romaniuk. Even when second/third rate, the food on display in this ‘busy kitchen’ must surely be plentiful, and here’s where a small theatre on low running costs can be caught. There’s just not enough food around.

If occasionally seeming like a sitcom-in-the-making - with a weekly swinging door of short-order cooks - the play does lead its characters on an optimistic path of redemption. And it brought the Ensemble house to a long, full-on standing ovation.

Frank Hatherley

Prudence Upton